Friday, December 11, 2015

Recent Projects

Here's a round up of the stuff I've made in the last few weeks/months.  They aren't in any particular order, and the pictures aren't fantastic - all of the taken indoors during the Toledo fall/winter.


Aberdeen - Seamwork Magazine

I really want to like this pattern.  I love dolman sleeves, and this is delightfully frumpy, but I have a hell of a time setting in the V-neck (which is unique to this pattern - I handled the V-neck on the Renfrew just fine).  This is my third time making this pattern, and the neckline still turns out wonky, but I have a limited capacity to care since it's going to be a loose, comfy shirt to wear around the house anyway.


Undercover Hood - Papercut Patterns - wearable muslin

My sister asked me to make her a sweatshirt/comfy shirt with a cowl neckline similar to a sweatshirt that Mom bought for me that I've been wearing a lot.  I started with the Undercover Hood pattern - which I've made for Tori before with success.  I then made a rectangle as big around as the neckline, sewed it together to make a lined cowl, and added a channel and grommets for a drawstring.  The gray version is the muslin I made to test out my theory, and it's become one of my favorite tops.

The gift version is on the left:

Center: self-drafted athletic tanks.  Right: Astoria -Seamwork Magazine

All of these are gifts for Tori.  I used some leftover bridesmaids dress fabric to make her a lengthened Astoria (she's a little more long-waisted than I am) and an athletic tank (she does Crossfit in her spare time).  


Project bag (for Mom)

I made this out of quilters cotton from Joann's using this tutorial: http://www.craftster.org/forum/index.php?topic=177482.0 

I also got her some stitch markers, a stitch counter, and a shawl pin to go in the bag and I'm working on a pair of slipper socks to go in it as well.

Afterthought heel socks for Dad

Dad requested a pair of socks for Christmas, so these are what he's getting along with a bottle of Toledo Spirits Whiskey Foxtrot Tango Batch 3 whiskey.  

Izel hat made from Mary Maxim Mellowspun DK

This was a trial run of this pattern, made from colors that Josh likes.  I finished it awhile ago, and in the meantime I knit myself a bigger, slouchier version using Patons Classic Wool Merino.  

All of these projects were documented for the Eryndor Artistry Guild, which is why I have pictures of them to dump here today.  I'm well on my way to masteries in tailoring and binding (sewing and knitting).

Saturday, November 7, 2015

Knits and Quilts

I found out a little late in the game that there was yet another sewing-themed month happening (Slow Fashion October).  Here's some stuff I've been working on since I last checked in:

Crimson Cross Quilt from Quilting Bee.

I've been working on a quilt off and on since last spring.  I dimly remember getting bit by the quilting bug after my sister gave me an awesome, amazing blanket for Christmas, so I went to Joann's after work and picked out a bunch of fat quarter packets.  After some fiddling, I started to make the blocks, then I stalled out (clothes-making is practically instant-gratification by comparison with quilt-making).  I'm back to working on it since I'm usually tired when I get home from work, and these blocks don't require a lot of thought.

Pile of knits - recently knit or recently photographed for the first time.

I'm really terrible about taking pictures of the things I knit.  Three of the five things in that pile I finished knitting nearly a year ago, but I recently washed and blocked them, and I had two other knits to take pictures of, so they ended up in the pile too.

From the top down, we have Gemini Mittens (Pattern), Rikke (Pattern), my Follow Your Arrow shawl (Pattern), Blank Canvas sweater (Pattern), and Hediye (Pattern).  

I finished knitting the Follow Your Arrow shawl a couple weeks ago and I finished the sweater last night during Pathfinder.  The hat, mittens, and Hediye shawl were all from late 2014 and early 2015, but they get a lot of wear and are a few of my go-to warm things.  

More pictures?  Okay!

 Blank Canvas sweater (Ysolda Teague)

 Follow Your Arrow mystery kal (Ysolda Teague)

 Hediye from Knitworthy I (Ysolda Teague)

 Gemini Mittens (Kate Dombrowski)

Rikke Hat (Sarah Young)

I'm currently swatching for another Blank Canvas sweater using some Marr Haven Organic Mule Spun Sport in a mid-gray/doe-brown color.  It's slow going though because my current job involves a lot of manual manipulation, and my hands are usually worn out by the time I get around to knitting in the evening.  So until my hands adjust to the work load, there won't be a ton of knitting or sewing in my immediate future.

Saturday, August 15, 2015

Veronika!

Now that the Veronika skirt pattern is live on Megan Nielsen's website, I figured I'd give you guys a look at the two versions I sewed up during the pattern testing process.  The pattern includes instructions to make the skirt out of either knit or woven fabric, which is super-useful.  

Woven gray Veronika with narrow waistband option 

This is the first version I made.  I've had this gray mystery-fabric in my stash for years, and was super pleased to get to use it up while making a great basic wardrobe item.  I used a cream invisible zipper (and I really didn't do a very good job setting it in) and finished the waistband by hand.  I finished the hem using bias tape which is hand-finished on the inside.  I've gotten tons of compliments on this skirt - the weight and body of the fabric ended up being pretty perfect for this skirt - and I'm looking forward to wearing it more in the Fall.

Purple knit Veronika - elastic waistband

Since I did so much hand-sewing on my first version, when I decided to make a second one I went the turbo-easy route.  This is purple cotton/poly ponte de roma from Joann Fabrics.  I used 1" wide braided elastic in the waistband, and the guts are all serged.  I didn't even bother to hem it.  I've gotten a lot of wear out of this skirt so far this summer - it's less constricting and fussy than the gray version above and goes well with so many other wardrobe items.  

I didn't line either version because I tend to prefer to wear a half-slip under my skirts.  I'd rather mix and match half-slips than sew a lining on every skirt.  

This was a great pattern (and it's free: http://megannielsen.com/collections/womens/products/veronika-skirt-sewing-pattern) and the pattern-testing process was absolutely awesome.  I had so much fun getting to be part of the behind-the-scenes process and I hope I get the opportunity to do more pattern-testing in the future.



Tuesday, August 11, 2015

Morris Blazer II

The Morris Blazer is one of those patterns that I want to make over and over again.  While I loved my first version - made with ponte - I wanted something a little more structured to wear with my Myrtle dress to Asashi's wedding.  I had some black stretch poly suiting leftover from my Osaka skirt - just enough to cut a second Morris blazer.

Black poly Morris Blazer  

This blazer went together much the same as the first, though the suiting wouldn't hold a crease at all and was generally difficult to get to cooperate.  I had finished the assembly up to the part where the facing gets attached.

That is when I should have taken a break, gotten a snack and maybe some coffee, maybe watched a couple episodes of The Golden Girls.  But I didn't, because I'm still a somewhat foolish sewist and I like to get things done RIGHT NOW.

Somewhere along the way, the facing stopped lining up quite right.  So I spent a frustrating half hour unpicking black thread on black poly stretch suiting.  My poor eyes.  Then I quit.  And by quit, I mean I left the damn thing on my dress form for several days to a week.  I don't really remember how long, but I remember that we decided to leave a day early for the wedding since Josh was hastily added to the bridal party and like hell was I not going to wear this blazer at that wedding.

The morning we left, I attached the facing and finished the whole thing.  I made some missteps attaching the sleeve facings - I encountered the same problem I encountered with my first version where the facings were smaller than the sleeve - but so far I've left it the way it was when I finished it that day.  No one really seems to notice anyway.

Guts.

In the two months since the wedding, I've worn this more than almost any other me-made item.  I've worn it out to dinner, to parties, out shopping when I need a light jacket.  I love that I can wear it like a cardigan but that it looks structured, not frumpy.  Abundantly useful and super appropriate for all kinds of activities, this is one of my favorite kinds of sewing patterns.

Thursday, August 6, 2015

Update - Fall Sewing

The mornings here in Toledo have started to get cooler - it was 63 degrees today on my way to work - which has gotten me thinking about what my Fall sewing projects should be.  Or maybe it was seeing the new plaid flannels at Joann's last night.  Or maybe it was seeing all the "pumpkin-spice-is-coming" posts on the internet.  

Sewing-wise, summer is down-time for me.  I rarely sew things that are hot-weather appropriate because I don't want to invest that much time in things that can only be worn a few months out of the year.  I rarely wear shorts, and my skirts are designed to be worn year-round with boots/tights/leggings.  There's frankly no point in having a separate summer wardrobe when you live 15 minutes from the Michigan border.  As I write this, I'm wearing a flannel top, jeans, boots, and a wool-alpaca scarf because my current work space is so heavily air-conditioned that I'd be freezing otherwise.

I've finished the first bridesmaids dress for my sister's wedding in September, and once I finish the second - and last - one I'll be done with "required" sewing for a little while (except the sheath dress my sister requested but hopefully that won't take too long).  

Top of the list for Fall sewing is an Archer shirt in flannel.  I bought the pattern on New Year's Eve (according to my Gmail - maybe I bought it after imbibing?  Who knows) after it sat in my sewing pattern wish list for a solid four months.  I read through the instructions and sew along this morning and feel very confident that I can put this together with a reasonable amount of work.

Also on the list: another Linden sweatshirt, another knit pencil skirt (I've worn my version of Gertie's knit pencil skirt to death), a cropped jacket (pattern tbd), a black circle skirt (Veronika, in a ponte knit), a pair of slim-fit sweatpants (probably full length Anima pants, since the Hudson's have an awkward crotch curve), and a Hemlock tee in off-white/cream interlock.  I'm a pretty plain person, and I'm partial to very few silhouettes.  

Finally, I'd also like to announce that after several months of searching and interviewing, I've landed a really awesome job with a great company.  I'll be starting there in a few weeks, and I couldn't be happier or more excited.  It's been a long, unpleasant road since I graduated two years ago, but I feel like I'm finally headed in the right direction.  :D

Saturday, August 1, 2015

Three Mesas

I had an interview awhile back for a scientist position with the Department of Agriculture.  I woke up the morning Josh and I were going to leave for Columbus nervous as all-get-out.  It was 6 AM.  Josh wouldn't wake up for another several hours and I desperately wanted to fill the time with something productive.

Fortunately, a few days before Mesa had been released in Seamwork Magazine and I had already printed, assembled, and traced size Medium.  So I made myself a big cup of coffee (what could possible go wrong when mixing anxiety, coffee, and sewing?) and got to work.  

I finished assembling the dress around the time Josh woke up.  I wore it on the drive down to Columbus, changing into my interview outfit once we'd arrived at a friend's house.  There isn't anything quite as satisfying as wearing something you made that morning.

 Mesa version 1

I immediately noticed the neckline gaped.  This is sometimes a problem for me - especially with wide necklines like this one.  I chalked it up to fabric choice - this is a slinkier knit and the samples in Seamwork were made from what looked like a much sturdier knit.  

When I was informed that I didn't get the position I interviewed for (sadface) I figured that I could let off some steam by giving Mesa another shot in a sturdier knit.  

Mesa version 2

Unfortunately, same problem.  Not that a gaping neckline would stop me from wearing them. Both dresses are a little snug in the hips as well. 

I made a toile using my high bust measurement to pick my size, then grade out to my waist and hip measurements (small bust - medium waist - large hip) because sometimes that fixes my fitting problems when I'm working with knits.  I didn't make this third version full-length because I didn't want to waste more fabric trying to get this pattern to work.

Third version was worse than the previous ones.  The neckline is still too large and gapes, but now the bust is too snug and the sleeves/armscythe is too tight.  I never bothered to hem it, and I'm currently trying to figure out if I can salvage any of the fabric for something else.

I'm trying to work myself up to giving it a fourth shot.  If I pinch out about an inch from the front and center back, the neckline starts to behave properly, but since the front is cut on the fold I think I'd need to take a long strip out of the center front and back, then add that ease back in at the side seams.  I have no clue if that'll work, and it'll probably mess with how the sleeves fit into the armscythe.

I think I'm done trying with this one.  I love how easily it comes together, but the shoulders/neckline are just way too broad for me (and I don't consider myself to have exceptionally narrow shoulders).  I'm probably just going to go through my Big Four collection and find something that fits my shoulders, and frankenpattern my own version of this dress.  It's worth noting that I had similar problems with the Aberdeen top so it's probably due to how the patterns are drafted or the proportions of their fit model.

This weekend, I'm going to be starting on the bridesmaids dresses for my sister's wedding.  I'll be making Myrtle - which I've made three times before with decent success - out of some poly knit fabric that my sister picked out.  It's actually pretty nice stuff - good recovery and it doesn't go see-through when stretched, and it doesn't curl up too horribly when cut but also isn't super thick.

Unfortunately, I made the dubious choice to cut out my size the first time I printed the pdf, and the other bridesmaid is a size larger than me, so I have a bunch of trimming and assembly to do.  I'd also like to retrace my own size, because the shoulder pieces don't really fit together right and I wanted to check and see if that's changed.

Update!

It turns out that a straight size medium Mesa perfectly fits my little sister, so I gave her the black and white version.  I'm planning to make her another one out of some black knit fabric with cream polka-dots before the end of the summer.

Sunday, July 19, 2015

Anima Lounge Shorts!

I'm a pretty big fan of the Anima pants pattern, so when Me-Made May made it abundantly clear that I needed a pair of me-made lounge shorts, I knew I was going to end up re-using this much-loved pattern.  

Heck yes lounge shorts!

These are made out of cotton/poly ponte de roma from Joann Fabrics.  I omitted the button holes and draw-string casing from the pattern, but otherwise this is made up according to the pattern instructions.  I stabilized the hem with stitch-witchery before using a twin-needle to hem them to prevent tunneling, which is a new favorite sneaky technique.

I wear them nearly constantly.  It's too hot out right now to wear my favorite loungewear items - mainly flannel pajama pants - and these have filled the gap in my wardrobe nicely.  I even wore them as real clothes when Val, Ty, and I were returning from a Dashboard Confessional concert in Cleveland.  Some days you wake up sore from rocking out and can't face putting on real pants. XD

I thought I was going to need to make another pair of them - so I could have one to wear when the other was in the wash - but it turns out that I only really need the one pair, especially since I'll be starting work soon.  It's typically frowned-on to wear pajama shorts to work. 

Friday, July 17, 2015

Eloise Shorts - Ohhh Lulu

I am totally weak in the presence of lingerie patterns, so when Ohhh Lulu released her new collection of lingerie sewing patterns it was all I could do to reign in my enthusiasm and choose only ONE pattern to start with.  I've had mixed success with her patterns - great success with the Jasmine bra, less so with her longline bra pattern - but I love how they look and want them all.  I selected the Eloise shorts pattern because it doesn't involve fold-over elastic (appropriately abbreviated FOE) and because I primarily wear shorts in that style (but purchased from Aerie) to bed and I'm starting to outgrow the ones that suited me in my early-20s.  

A+ use of leftover fabric, eh?

I had about a yard of fabric left over from when I made my last Myrtle that I had ear-marked to make tap-pants out of once I found a suitable pattern.  That plan was junked in favor of immediate gratification.  

Pattern assembly was straight forward, as was tracing my size (I think I traced a Large), and everything went together really easily.  I was a little wary, because the front isn't elasticized and the back is, but everything lined up.  I serged all the guts after basting together with my sewing machine straight stitch so that nothing slid around on me.  

I love them.  They're super slinky and short and great for wearing to bed with cute little camisoles.  I'd like to try out making them from flannel for winter, but that's not relevant in July/August.  

Tuesday, July 14, 2015

Myrtle

 I absolutely love how dressy Myrtle looks made up in a woven fabric.  When boyfriend informed me that we'd both been invited to his friend Asashi's wedding, I knew I was going to make another Myrtle to wear to it.  I was in the midst of preparing for Me-Made May, and the wedding was the 15th, so I knew I'd need something me-made to wear to it in order to meet the criteria of my Me-Made May challenge.

Holy crap do I love this dress

I bought the fabric from Joann's while I was helping a friend pick fabric to make pantaloons out of.  I knew I wanted something in neutral colors, predominately black but not all black.  The moment I saw it, I knew it was the one - a black floral print on a beige background.  It's also a rayon/poly blend, which was also pretty ideal since a portion of the wedding was going to be outside.  

This fabric, while perfectly fitting the bill of what I wanted to wear, was not at all what I like to sew with.  It frayed a bit here and there, but most of my problems had to do with how slippery it was.  Since I'm a cheap-ass, I didn't buy spray starch; instead, I just went about putting it together slowly and took frequent breaks to readjust my internal critic.  

I wore this with my second Morris blazer - featured in a different blog post - and a pair of black snakeskin wedge heels that I wore at my previous job.  Tons of people complimented both the dress and the blazer.

-Update-

Life got super hectic and I let a lot of things slide.  This blog was one of them; however, I just went through and photographed ALL the projects I've made since the last series of blog posts and that's easily half the battle of writing blog posts.  So the next several project posts are photographed pretty much in the same style, and that's because I did them all at once.  Womp womp.

Thursday, June 11, 2015

Ragnarok To-Sew List

I'm gearing up to do some Ragnarok sewing, and wanted to share the current pattern collection and plans.  I have an extensive Dagorhir pattern collection, accrued over nearly eight years in the game, but that didn't stop me from plunking down money this morning to acquire the Named Asaka Kimono pattern.

My plan is to make a sleeveless version in either a gray suiting or black linen, to wear over tank tops with leggings during the day, or over an embellished dress for nightlife.

I'm also pulling B5714, S5359, and M6265 out of my pattern library.  I'm probably going to use B5714 version A (sleeveless) and/or version C to wear over tank tops.  I'm also planning to sew some minivests using S5359 for the same purpose.  M6265 is a Dagorhir-appropriate tunic/dress pattern that I'll get to if I have time.

Of course, we're only going to be there for a few days, so technically I don't *need* to make anything for this trip.  I can get by with the things I have kept, supplementing with some mundane clothes which will work fine since I doubt I'll do any fighting in that time.  I've had my eye on a good wrap-tunic pattern for quite some time, and I believe that the Asaka pattern will do perfectly.

Saturday, June 6, 2015

Me-Made May - a reflection

At the outset, I had every intention of documenting what I wore every day so that I could figure out what I need to make more of, and what I should avoid making; however, everything went off the rails during the wedding weekend.  With the exception of a few days at the end of the month, I still successfully wore primarily handmade garments - and the few days I missed were due to laundry issues.

See, between the 15th and the 31st, I was only at home about six days.  So laundry never got done, I ran out of handmade clothes, AND I was traveling out of town (i.e. unpredictable weather in the Midwest) so some days I'd wake up intending to wear one of my two Morris blazers, and I just didn't quite happen.

I've done a lot of sewing though.  I helped a friend finish a cloak for his White Mage cosplay (he's at the con this weekend, so hopefully there will be pictures soon) - which went extraordinarily slowly because he'd never sewn a garment using a pattern before and some of the assembly was a little fussy.  I made some pantaloons for another friend who's getting back into Dagorhir.

I finished Anima shorts for myself, and over the last couple days I've made two Mesa dresses from the Seamworks June edition.  I'm not usually a dress person, but I adore this pattern.  The second one just needs hemmed and I'll be able to wear it!  I need to somehow adjust the shoulders of the pattern - I have narrow shoulders, and wide necklines aren't the easiest or most comfortable to wear.

I'm turning my sewing-brain to new projects: Josh and I decided to attend at least a portion of Ragnarok this year, which means that I have quite a bit of sewing to do to get ready.  We both need some new garb - I just purged a ton of stuff and only kept the things that I knew I'd wear again (and that still fit), which means that I'm seriously lacking tops/tunics.  I'm planning to make a few Pavlova wrap tops to wear over tank tops with pantaloons, and call it a day.  Josh needs new tops/tunics as well, but I need to adjust the patterns before I can just bust out some minivests.

Wednesday, May 6, 2015

MMMD6

Day 4: black ponte Hudson pants!  Worn with an ancient Star Wars Return of the Jedi T-shirt in honor of May the Fourth.

Day 5: black technical fabric V-neck Renfrew top, worn with skinny jeans (RTW).

Day 6: gray technical fabric Hemlock Tee (worn to the gym with leggings and an old AZO hoodie), black ponte Hemlock Tee (with skinny jeans).

Some works in progress:


Myrtle v2 


Morris blazer + Osaka skirt

The dress is for a wedding I'll be attending on May 15th.  I'd like to have the Morris blazer done by then as well, so I can wear them together.  The Osaka skirt is finished except for button holes and buttons, because I haven't yet used the buttonholer on my new sewing machine and haven't felt like figuring it out yet.

Next on the sewing list is a pair of Anima shorts!

Sunday, May 3, 2015

MMM Week 1

1 May: Black-and-floral Myrtle dress (Colette Patterns) + ponte Morris blazer (Grainline Studio). Worn out to see Age of Ultron, then to play Pathfinder with friends.

2 May: Purple Veronika skirt (Megan Nielsen) + ponte Morris blazer (Grainline Studio).  Worn out to the grocery and to work on Harle's white mage cosplay (more details later!).

3 May: Gray Anima pants (Papercut Patterns) + handknit socks (Kai-Mei, Cookie A).  Worn around the house on a lazy Sunday while doing laundry and watching Charmed and waiting for Game of Thrones!

I spent part of the morning looking through my copy of The Colette Sewing Handbook and Gertie's New Book for Better Sewing, retaking my measurements, learning how to do a FBA (and trying it out with a quickie Sorbetto), and finally making a list of what I'd like to make for next year for MMM.

High on the list is a pair of cotton loungewear/pajama shorts.  I'd love to rub off a pattern from a pair of flannel pajama shorts I got at Aerie six years ago that I adore, but they're also a bit too small now so that might take a minute.  I'm eyeing Simplicity 4023 as a potential pattern to work from, since it's a simple, draw-string pajama pant.  Another possibility is the pajama pant pattern in Love at First Stitch.

But that will have to wait.  Right now my top three sewing priorities for the next week are sewing another Myrtle to wear to a wedding on the 15th, a blanket as a wedding gift, and helping my friend sew a white mage cloak for a cosplay he's putting together.


Monday, April 27, 2015

Astoria - Seamworks Magazine

When I first saw the Astoria top pattern in Seamworks magazine, I wasn't really bowled over by it.  I have several knit top patterns in my stash (Renfrew, Undercover Hood, Linden, and others) and to be frank it isn't a terribly exciting-looking pattern.  Still, I printed it out and assembled it (along with Bristol and Osaka).

Black v1 - no modifications

Then I saw how small the pattern pieces were.  And I thought, "That won't take that long to cut out."  So I cut out a size small in some gray sweatshirt/knit fabric that I had leftover from making Anima pants eons ago.  I loved how soft the fabric was (I think it's a rayon/poly blend) but it showed wear nearly immediately so I didn't know what I was going to do with the rest of it.  "A muslin, " I thought.

Gray v2 - lengthened 2"

It was love at first wear.  The band hit right at my natural waist, and paired perfectly with my high-waisted skirts.  So I cut out another one just like it, in black; then I lengthened the pattern by 2" and used up the rest of the gray fabric.

While I was still working, I wished that I had warmer tops that worked well with my skirts, and Astoria filled that gap in my me-made wardrobe beautifully.  The lengthened version is the perfect length to wear with skinny jeans, and I'm currently planning to make another longer one in black.

As an aside, most of the clothes I'm making these days are gray/black which is pretty boring, but those are honestly the colors I wear the most and what I gravitate towards.  I've got some pretty 100% rayon fabric - black but printed with purple and white flowers - that I'm going to be using in the near future to make a Bristol skirt, so something more visually interesting is in the works!

Thursday, April 23, 2015

Me-Made May

I, Viveca of overdevelopedsenseofenlightenment.blogspot.com, sign up as a participant of Me-Made-May '15. I endeavour to wear one me-made garment (sewn or knit) each day for the duration of May 2015.

Last year, I was super-excited to discover Me-Made May.  A month-long challenge about wearing the garments I've spent so much time making and that make me feel amazing when I wear them?!  Awesome!  But I was also super-bummed, because I discovered it about midway through the month and I hadn't had the time or money to sew many garments that weren't Dagorhir garb.  I had recently started a new job (in February) and hadn't quite gotten through my 90-day probationary period, and I was trying to catch up on bills and save some money for the future.  But I planned right then to do it in 2015.

I still don't have a huge amount of handmade clothes, to be honest.  I just pulled out what I could easily find and here are the stats:

Dresses: 2
Skirts: 7
Cardigans: 1
Knit tops: 8
Sweatshirts: 1
Sweaters (handknit): 3
Socks (handknit): at least 8*
Scarves/Shawls: 5
Blazer: 1

I currently have plans to sew a couple more skirts - they're my favorite sewing project - and I'd like to sew a couple more knit tops, maybe an Osaka and/or Bristol skirt, and another Morris blazer (in a suiting fabric).

My me-mades definitely show my learning curve with knits over the last year (some of that top-stitching is truly cringe-worthy) and it's evident that I struggled with adapting to my new sewing machine, but things are smoothing out.

Pictures!






I also have a pair of altered pants, a pair of Hudson pants, a Hemlock tee, an Aberdeen top, and at least one more pair of handknit socks that I left in Cincinnati the last time I was there.  I'm hoping to get them back before May, but I'm not 100% sure that's going to happen.

I'm super excited to get to participate in Me Made May '15!  Good luck to everyone else who's participating!

Wednesday, April 22, 2015

Morris Blazer

Grainline Studio dropped the much-anticipated Morris Blazer pattern yesterday, and I was immediately and totally besotted.  I'd been on the look-out for a short-jacket pattern to fill an existing gap in my me-made wardrobe and had considered the Coco jacket from Schnittchen and the Lourdes jacket from Named, but I wasn't (and still don't feel) ready to face a real coat pattern.



The Morris blazer ticked many boxes for me: it's both structured and drapey, looks comfortable, and I like the sleeve length.  Add to that the awesome styling of the pattern, and the knowledge that Jen produces incredibly high-quality patterns and directions, and I was sold.  It leapt into my shopping cart and before I knew it I was assembling a pdf pattern at 10 AM.



I already had five yards of black ponte - one of my preferred fabrics - set aside for tops, jackets, and cardigans in preparation for Me-Made May, so that's what I used for this version.  Eventually I'd like to make a professional-wear version out of black stretch suiting.



I assembled this blazer primarily using my serger, though I used my Janome to do the topstitching and to baste everything together before serging.  The fabric I used was a little too drapey for this pattern, but I still love the jacket and will wear the hell out of it.

As usual, the drafting and instructions were superb and I had very little trouble putting Morris together.  I spent the whole day yesterday on this project (with breaks) but actual assembly probably only took 2-3 hours once everything was cut out and interfaced.

I had a heck of a time doing the sleeve facings, which I assume is because I was tired and getting grumpy after a long day of preparation and sewing.  It could also be due to the amount of stretch in the fabric - the sleeve was significantly bigger than the interfaced facing, and I had trouble easing it in evenly.  "I should probably quit while I'm ahead" occurred to me right before I did it, but I really wanted it done.  It isn't super-noticeable when the jacket's being worn.

This pattern is definitely a winner for me, and I'll absolutely be sewing it up again in a more structured fabric.

Wednesday, April 15, 2015

Oslo Cardigan

Good afternoon!  Unfortunately I've been pretty sick for the last several days, and had been out of town off-and-on for the two weeks prior, so I just now got around to photographing this make!  This is the Oslo cardigan from Seamworks Magazine, made up in a cotton/spandex performance knit from Joann's.


I cut this out before I left for Cincinnati more than two weeks ago.  I finally got around to sewing it up last week after returning from South Haven, while boyfriend was sick in bed.

(Interior)

Prior to making this, I had one black cardigan that I purchased at Old Navy a year ago.  It quickly grew threadbare and shabby-looking (as modern RTW is wont to do) but I continued to wear it stubbornly up until my job ended.  As soon as I saw Oslo, I knew I wanted to make it.  This pattern was actually the tipping-point for subscribing to Seamworks.  

I originally purchased this fabric to make a pair of Ohhh La Leggings from Papercut Patterns.  I'm pretty sure I still have enough left over to swing a pair of the cropped length; however, this fabric rolled and stuck to itself and was a pain to work with so I'm not sure exactly when I'll get around to it.  Also, it was extremely difficult to tell the right side from the wrong side without bright lights and super-clean glasses. XD

Regardless, it's really comfy and going to be a great wardrobe staple!

Monday, March 23, 2015

Monday

Step 1: Coffee.

Step 2: Sew a shirt.

Step 3: Prepare for the AAPS online career fair.

Step 4: More coffee.

Yesterday, I cut out the Aberdeen top from Seamwork Magazine.  This will be my second time making it.  First time through I made a straight size medium and it's too big through the shoulders, so this time I graded between an XS (my bust measurement = 34") and the M (my waist = 30" and hip = 40").  I can tell from looking at the graded pattern that the shoulders look closer to what my RTW clothes look like, so I cut it out in some black interlock yesterday so I could sew it together this morning.

I'm really nervous about the AAPS career fair that's scheduled for Wednesday.  I've never been to a career fair before, much less an online one, so I'm doing a lot of reading online and I'm going to be organizing my desktop later today and rewriting resumes and cover letters so they're ready to email out if any of the companies are interested.  Currently there aren't a ton of companies who have their booths set up, but I'm really interested in at least one of them, so here's hoping that seeing my cheerful face and getting to talk to a human for a change will improve my chances.

Good luck in your endeavors today!

Sunday, March 22, 2015

Sewing Machines and a Brief History

When I was looking at sewing machines last year, I found posts from other bloggers about what sewing machines they used to be extremely helpful.  I'm currently using a Janome Skyline S5 sewing machine and a Brother 1034D serger, but that wasn't always the case.

I first learned how to sew on my mother's Husqvarna sewing machine.  I have no idea what year or model it was, but it's existed my whole life.  My paternal grandmother (Granny) had a nearly identical model that my sister now owns and uses to make quilts and blankets.  My maternal grandmother had a Singer 3102 which I used occasionally as a kid, but which I saw way less frequently than the Husqvarnas.

My childhood experience with sewing machines was mainly making doll clothes (though I preferred handsewing those since they were so small), doll blankets, and pillows.  I abandoned sewing during my early adolescence, and returned to it in 2007 when I discovered the hobby that would consume my life for the next 7 years: Dagorhir.

Dagorhir is a historical/fantasy live-action combat game based on Lord of the Rings.  I attended my first Ragnarok (XXII) in 2007 and loved all aspects of the game almost immediately: there was fighting with padded weapons, a thriving nightlife, a ton of friendly people, and (omg) the costumes.  For Dagorhir, there are two ways of going about creating a garb wardrobe: you can buy things (either Goodwill or Etsy or independent craftspeople) or you can make your own.

Naturally, since I was a 19-year-old college student, I couldn't afford the garb I wanted to wear so I set about re-learning how to sew and made tons of perfectly terrible garb that I loved unconditionally.  Poofy pantaloons, peasant tops, tunics.  I remember that Butterick B4929 View B was a particular favorite of mine during that era, though I didn't follow any of the instructions.  I was a "thanks for the pattern pieces now leave me alone" kind of sewist at the time.

I came and went from the community (I was in pharmacy school after all), and eventually joined a unit, ran for and was elected Coordinator for my realm, then my unit fell apart and I graduated from college and had to find that all-important first professional job, which meant scrubbing Dagorhir from my existence (or at least, my Google search results).  I wasn't particularly sad to go, as the community wasn't what it used to be, so I took my randomly collected sewing knowledge and left.

When I say that my sewing knowledge at that time was random, I mean that I knew how to set in a sleeve but not how to set in a zipper.  I could sew a button-hole, but I had never in my life evened a hem. I had sewn with faux fur, but had never, ever even considered using a lining.  None of my seams were finished and I was continually frustrated by how crappy they looked on the inside (and eventually the outside once those seams started to fray and threads went everywhere).

I eventually found a desk job, and during the down time I returned to a blog that had inspired me when I'd first started sewing garb - Coletterie.  And I began to ponder if there were other people doing what Colette Patterns did, but in a different way or with a different style.  Finding and reading the archives of other independent designers became my pastime during downtime at work.  I soon discovered Grainline Studio, Closet Case Files, Megan Nielsen, Miss Make, Clothing Engineer, Deer and Doe, Cloth Habit, By Hand London, Cashmerette, Gertie, Lladybird, Ginger Makes, and a ton of other bloggers who were either designing patterns to fit an aesthetic, or who were blogging about sewing and putting out tutorials about how to do different things.

I encountered the Lean Closet movement, The Wardrobe Architect, and Overdressed.  I reduced my closet to 1/3 of it's former volume, then a few months later in half again.  I looked at what I wore and why, and found patterns to match.  I learned how to finish seams, how to properly hand-finish, how to set zippers and the importance of linings.  It was a great period of time in my life, since I hadn't been learning anything for months since graduation and it was nice to gain proficiency in a new discipline.

Since work was a roller coaster - starting with notice that our grant funding hadn't been renewed in June, to the audits we still had to complete in July and September, to being told I'd have a job in the clinic I worked in (but not for) in October, to notice that I wouldn't in early January, and finally being let go in mid-March following the official closure of the non-profit I worked for. Fortunately, I had spent some time and money stocking up on the fabrics I liked to use during the Fall and early winter - mostly because I wanted to sew things but didn't have time - so now I have some materials to work with.

In the coming months, I'm planning to update my wardrobe with me-made garments in preparation for Me-Made May.  I'll also be job-hunting, but I know from past experience that you can only apply to so many jobs a week, and I'll need something to fill the rest of the time.

I just finished pattern-testing Megan Nielsen's soon-to-be-released free skirt pattern (Veronika), but I haven't had a chance to take pictures yet (the area where I live has the most overcast days per year of any city in the U.S.) and frankly I'm not sure if I'm supposed to post them yet.  Or at all.  I am thrilled with how Version 2 turned out, and I definitely plan to post that one eventually.

What's on your sewing agenda?  Did you arrive at sewing as a hobby by atypical means?

Tuesday, March 17, 2015

Linden Sweatshirt

Yesterday afternoon I finished my second Linden Sweatshirt, designed by Grainline Studio.  I used gray non-stretch sweatshirt fabric and black ribbing (both cotton/poly blends).  This is a straight size 10, even though my bust measurement is two sizes smaller.  I left it because the fabric has zero stretch whatsoever, but I really wanted to use it because it looked best with the black ribbing.  Both fabrics came from Joann Fabrics, and I assembled the whole thing on my serger except for that fancy topstitching at the neckband (which I'm pretty proud of).




I haven't posted an updated picture of my work room in a long time.  Updates include addition of another table - so I can have a dedicated cutting/ironing station.  My mom got me a Janome Skyline S5 sewing machine for Christmas; previously, I used a Janome 3125.  The serger is a Brother 1034D that I got on Black Friday last year.  My grandmother gave me her Singer last year as well, which I still use occasionally.  On the left-side of the picture is a clothes rack that I picked up at Big Lots where I hang things that need to be altered as well as patterns that are currently in use.  My Dad gave me the toolbox in the corner for my birthday, and I store my sewing machine parts and tools in there.

The Maker print is the newest addition.  It's a little thank-you gift from Megan Nielsen for pattern-testing the Veronika skirt pattern (coming soon) that I framed yesterday and hung up.  I can't wait to find more prints/decorations for this room.  I love working in it - it's so peaceful and everything's so organized!


This is a pretty bland post.  I'm trying to get back into the swing of blogging after years of inconsistency.  I've made several other garments in the past few weeks - Hemlock tees, the Aberdeen top from Seamwork Magazine, Mabel skirts in different lengths.  I'm super excited to test the Veronika Skirt pattern - it's at the top of my sewing list at the moment - and I want to make the Osaka wrap skirt from Seamwork as well.

I very recently lost my job as a clinical research coordinator because the non-profit I was working for lost grant funding and was forced to close.  The next few months will be fairly chaotic - I'll be looking for another job and potentially relocating - but I definitely want to use some of this time to update my wardrobe and prepare for Me-Made May.  I love my me-made garments and tend to reach for them before I reach for RTW, and I'd love to have more options.

On today's itinerary: trace the Veronika pattern pieces, cut fabric, apply for jobs, brew kombucha, mix some bread dough, and do some laundry.

Wednesday, February 18, 2015

February 2015

It's been quite a ride.  In an effort to use this space again, to blog regularly, and to write more, I've gone through and cleared out a ton of old posts.  I still have them saved in draft form, but hopefully they've disappeared from the blog proper so that I have a clean slate to start over with.

I've left up a few posts, but mostly for posterity and to give background.

I graduated in 2013 with my MS in pharmaceutical sciences, struggled until February 2014 to find a job, started working as a clinical research coordinator (which proved to not be a terrific fit, but I suspected as much when I was hired), then my organization lost funding and I'm in the last few weeks at work before I'm downsized.

The really fantastic thing about my soon-to-be-past job is that it finally allowed me the time and money to pursue my hobbies - sewing and knitting - to an extent I've never been able to before.  I've started producing clothes and knits that are more consistent with my personal style - and I've started incorporating more couture techniques into my sewing.

I bought a Brother 1034D serger on Black Friday last year, and I honestly have no idea how I lived without it.  I've been sewing primarily knits lately with heavy emphasis on boxy tops, V-neck fitted tops, and pencil skirts.

My favorite pattern companies include Colette, Sewaholic, Grainline Studio, Megan Nielsen, and Papercut Patterns.  I've thoroughly enjoyed the Perfect Pattern Parcel and the 8 Days A Week pattern collections that appeared last Fall.

One of my more recent challenges has been sewing bras - specifically the Cloth Habit Watson bra - though I'm planning to branch out into the Pin Up Girls pattern line soon.  Sourcing materials has been the biggest hitch for me, since money is tight due to impending unemployment.  I have the materials and patterns to start sewing athletic gear and I'm super excited to give that a shot - The Fehr Trade Duathalon shorts, the Surf to Summit stop, and Papercut's Ohhh La Leggings are all on the list.

I'm also in the process of piecing a quilt.  It's the Crimson Cross pattern from the Little Bits Quilting Bee book.  I'm in the process of assembling the blocks now - a few at a time after work.

As for knitting, I successfully knit something for nearly everyone on my list for Christmas this year, though I photographed nearly none of them.  I'm currently working on a pair of Gemini Mittens (on Ravelry) for myself that are lavender on the outside and gray on the inside.  I've also got a pair of Monkey socks on the needles, a pair of Toe-Up Guy socks on another set of needles, and a pair of Vestigial socks as well.  I'm probably going to end up frogging the Vestigial socks though, since I don't think the yarn is well suited to the project (aka I have a ball of yarn I'd rather use for a pattern like that one).

It's been a desperately cold winter here in Ohio.  We haven't gotten near the amount of snow we got last year, but the temperatures have been bitter and the wind has been awful.  I've been bundling up in my warmest things and been matching up patterns with stash fabric and yarn to keep me busy.  I seriously can't wait to finish these mittens - I've got half a thumb left to knit then they're done!