I've been getting requests from friends of mine for a pattern/tutorial for how to make the pantaloons I wear to play Dagorhir. This is that tutorial. :)
There are three different styles of pantaloons that I've made, and I'm going to provide tutorials for two of them (the third is a bit silly and I only own one pair made in that fashion).
Both types are virtually the same with one exception.
Step One: Measure the desired length of the pantaloons. I prefer my pantaloons to sit on my hips, so I measure from there to the floor.
Example:
Length: 39"
Add approx 2 inches for the waist casing
Add another inch or so for the ankle casings
I prefer my pantaloons to be a bit longer so they fall full around my ankles so I usually round up to the nearest foot or so.
I'm 5'5" and 2.5 yards of fabric is perfect with very little left over.
Step 2: Purchase fabric (60 in wide fabric is best) to your approximate calculated length. Unless you're really skinny, 45" wide won't be enough.
Step 3: Find a pair of jeans whose waistband falls where you want your pantaloons to fit. Fold them in half with the back pockets facing out. The curve created by the crotch seam is what you're looking for.
Okay. So you've got your 60" wide fabric. It should be folded in half lengthwise. Fold it in half again widthwise so you have four layers of fabric. The length of the rectangle created by these folds should be 30 inches wide (or half the width of the fabric you're using) and your measurement long.
Lay your jeans out on top of the fabric such that the inseam of the jeans is aligned with the fold-edge (opposite the selvage edge). Make sure the waist band (which won't line up with the fold at the top so don't worry about it) is two inches or so below the top (folded) edge. Chalk out the crotch-seam curve onto the fabric. Toss the jeans aside.
I hope that clarifies what you should be seeing.
Once you've cut out the crotch, cut along the one-fold edge so that you have two "legs."
Here we come to some variations. You can skip the next step if you want and make a baggier pair of pantaloons.
Optional step (variation 2) - Fitted at the hip, full through the leg.
Get out a measuring tape and measure your hips (or the widest part of your butt). Add four inches to this measurement. Divide that number by two (we'll call this number Y). Feel free to round. Okay. Now look back at your fabric. Measure out from the cut crotch edge to Y measurement. Mark this with a pin. Draw a diagonal line from this mark to the ankle on the selvage side. This creates a fitted hip with fuller length. This is my personal favorite type of pantaloon.
Like this:
The directions from here are the same:
Match the crotch seams and sew with right sides together. Open out the pants and hold them such that they look like wrap pants. Match the legs and seam selvage edges together. At the waistband, create a 1-1.5 inch casing for elastic (or you can make this narrower and use narrower elastic - it doesn't really matter. Whatever you prefer). Stitch down, leaving an opening to feed elastic through. Using a safety pin, thread elastic through the casing, sew the two ends of the elastic together, close the casing. Repeat this with the bottom (ankle) edges.
Flip those bad boys right side out and check out your bitchin' pantaloons.
*A casing basically like a hem. You fold over the edge of the fabric to a width that will comfortably contain the elastic and seam it down. Stop a couple of inches before finishing the casing to leave an opening to thread the elastic through. Make sure that you do the fold towards the wrong side of the fabric.
*The selvage edge is the "unfinished" edge of the fabric. Usually it's white or has little holes poked in it.
*After you've made a pair and have seen how they fit, you can make them narrower or baggier as needed. I've made them shorter as well (to wear with boots).
